Most people see the Ilulissat Icefjord from the visitor center or a boat. Walk a little further and the trails along it are empty. In Nuuk, the capital, locals hike Quassussuaq, take icy plunges at Saqqarliit beach while icebergs drift past, and eat muskox and fish soup at the Katuaq cultural center for fair prices.
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Elinor and Jake (and Mac the penguin) are a couple based in Spain with, in their words, a serious Arctic problem. They took the slow ferry from Ilulissat down to Nuuk, and their blog covers Greenland in depth: when to go, what to pack, where to stay and what to do.
Greenland's small, surprisingly modern capital, with mountains and fjords at the end of the streets.
Icebergs the size of city blocks drift out of the UNESCO-listed Icefjord, right at the edge of town.
Elsewhere on the world's biggest island.
